Frequently Asked Questions

•  What type of leather will be used to create my rig?

I use premium quality, full grain vegetable-tanned cowhide for all rigs. Full grain leather is the most durable as the top layer has not been removed. The top layer is the most dense and has the greatest strength. Leathers described as "top grain," "split grain" and "real leather" have the top layer removed. Note: Vegetable tanning uses natural tanning materials and does not have the metallic residues that have a corrosive effect commonly associated with chrome-tanned leather. 

•   How should I maintain my leather gear?

  Your leather should give you good service for a very long time if properly maintained.

  I recommend rubbing non-suede parts of your leather with a good quality leather conditioner periodically to help preserve the items and bring out the nuances that make leather special. This is especially important if the leather has been exposed to moisture such as rain, snow, or heavy perspiration.  If the leather gets wet, let it dry thoroughly and then gently work the moisturizer into the leather.  After the moisturizer has been absorbed, buff the leather with a soft cloth.

  For suede leather, I recommend using a conditioner made specifically for suede.

• How do I determine the right size for a custom made dress belt?

  Measuring a belt you already own is the best way to find your correct belt size. Here's how:
  - Put the belt on and note which sizing hole you are using.
  - Remove the belt and lay it on a flat surface. 
  - Measure the distance from the sizing hole that was most comfortable to the point where the buckle meets the leather. 
  - Round your measurement to the nearest inch. If you measure 35 1/2 inches, you will want to purchase a size 36 belt.

•  How do I measure for a cartridge belt?

Measure yourself around the hips where you want your belt to ride. Cartridge/holster belts are worn over the top of your clothing. They typically ride a bit lower on the hips than your standard dress belt.  If not properly measured, your rig will not ride properly and your cartridge loops will not ride in the intended position.

• What is meant by "draw type" in western holsters?

Draw type refers to the wear location in relation to the wearer's "strong" hand. The three most common draw types for western holsters are strong-side, cross-draw and twist draw.

- Strong-side: The most common draw for western holsters. The holster is worn on the wearer's "strong" side...i.e. on the right side for right-handed wearers. 
- Cross-Draw: The holster is worn on the wearer's "weak" side...i.e. on the left hip for right-handed wearers. 
- Twist-Draw: The holster is worn on the wearer's "strong" side, but with the grip facing forward. It is similar to a cross-draw for the "weak" hand. It is also called "cavalry-carry.”.

•  What is the difference in “retention types” for holsters:

  There are several types of retention for holsters. Each type of retentions will help keep the revolver secure, however the specific styles have their differences.

  - Snapped Hammer Straps: This is the most secure but is not “historically” correct. The snapped strap generally requires the reinforcement at the holster throat to mount the snap stud to avoid any metal on the inside of the holster.  The snapped hammer strap normally runs behind the hammer. The strap is cut to fit the gap behind the hammer spur for the specific revolver.

  - Thumb Break Straps: This style functions is used primarily for “tactical” holsters. It is much like the snapped hammer strap, but has the strap passing from front to rear and snaps in a manner in which the thumb releases the snap when the draw grip is established. The placement of the metal snap components has the greatest potential for metal to metal contact with the firearm.

  - Slotted Hammer Straps: This style of retention is historically correct and provides excellent retention. Two parallel slots are cut into the forward edge of the holster to hold the strap and uses friction to snug the strap over the hammer spur.

  - Hammer Thong:  This style of retention is historically correct and provides adequate retention. The thong provides retention in much the same manner as the slotted hammer strap. Two round holes are punched into the forward edge of the holster and the leather thong passed through the holes to provide the friction needed to secure the revolver.

  - Friction Retention: This style relies on creating “friction points” within the holster. This is usually accomplished by “wet molding” the holster to create the friction points.

• Are any two items exactly alike? 

No. Each item is unique. I draw most of my artwork freehand and each piece of leather has its own grains, wrinkles and coloration that make it unique. That is what makes leather so beautiful and special.

•  Can I guarantee an exact color?

Unfortunately, no. I can usually get close, but each piece of leather and each batch of dye will have its own characteristics. The best way to get the closest color match for two or more items is to cut the items from the same piece of leather and use the same batch of dye.

•  How long will it take to get my rig?

As a one person shop, the time to create and deliver your rig will vary based on my current workload. I will give you a realistic estimate of the delivery time before you order.